30.06.2019
Been on my list since I first climbed Yak so many years ago. Pete's recent write up on Guanaco Peak covers the access beta... the only difference being I drove to the end of Coldwater FSR which included about 5km of plowing through alder tunnels.
Quick Recap of Important Points:
- Mosquitos were hell on the Coldwater FSR
- Park at turn around and bring a bike to speed up the boring road section past Zum/Douglas Lake area (or bring a 4x4 vehicle that can take the abuse)
- Watch for cairn after the cut block on decommissioned road indicating trail takes a sharp left over twisted wonky footbridge.
- Boggy section before reaching the slabs under Vicuna - waterproof shoes, boots recommended
Vicuna can be summarized easily into a rewarding class 3 scramble with a stiff class 4 crux (aided by a chain and cable). Its a touch unnerving when you reach the top of the chain and discover a single bolt, albeit in good shape but no redundancy. (if you happen to have a wrench on you, give it a turn please). To finish your ascent throw in a couple awkward moves above the crux in 2 separate places then you are home free. Lastly, if you are familiar with Yak Peak... you will notice how from below Vicuna looks like a slightly smaller version.
Still some snow melting out so there are lots of water sources until you enter the lower section of the col area.
Aside: Always keep in mind when you are pushing yourself out of your comfort zone ascend something like this... you still need to descend, and that usually ends up being more difficult.
I ran into 2 couples coming up Vicuna and took a nice long break swapping beta on 'favourites' before I crossed the col to tag Guanaco. And, in order to save a little time and cut off some length I dropped down one of the gulleys on the south side and traversed along some giant steps before I started to descent again along the up track. There are lots of opportunities to make your own trail up and down Guanaco and judging by the braiding I would say many do but be warned you can easily also get cliffed out and have to backtrack (...but that is part of the fun no?).
Overall a successful adventure, met some cool people, improved on my BC paintjob and beat the Sunday traffic back.
Have fun and stay safe.
Regards,
Rex
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